“Хорошие девочки попадают на небеса, а плохие путешествуют по всему свету с одной мыслью в головках: любовь и секс”.

Jul 21, 2011 290 Comments Автор

В Афинах я прочитал это в русской газете, валяясь в порту Пирея на газоне с бутербродами в жирной, промасленной бумаге и с черной запотевшей бутылкой пива.

Перед отплытием на Патмос я читал данные опроса опытных путешественниц, этих самых “нехороших девочек”. В газете писали, что они предпочитают всему на свете греческие острова и греков-любовников. Даже итальянцы в опроснике отходили на обидное второе место.

Паром “Ниссос Кипрос” грузится долго. Толпы отъезжающих обмахиваются веерами и обтираются платками. Служащие в зале отправления ничего толком не знают, лениво машут куда-то в пространство, и это всех успокаивает. В знойной атмосфере всеобщей афинской лени, суеты и беспечности охватывает детское ощущение: “без нас не уедут”. Подходит час погрузки. Солнце садится в раскаленные улицы-спуски Пирея. К столам регистрации выходят длинноногие бортпроводницы в обтягивающих синих униформах и белых блузках. В стеклянную будку пограничного контроля заваливается ответственный толстяк в клетчатой рубахе, в брюках на помочах и с печатью в кулаке. К нему выстраиваются две очереди. Он шлепает штампы в паспорта налево и направо, словно повар, раскладывающий бесплатный гарнир. Когда стая древних, подслеповатых греческих старух-богомолок начинает совать ему индивидуальные паспорта, он сгребает их все разом в пеструю стопку и штампует подряд, не глядя на лица, такие древние, что сличению с фотографиями в паспортах они уже не подлежат.

Над Афинами хорошо видна шапка ярко-фиолетового смога. Палубы o парома полны разнокалиберного народа. Британские возрастные путешественники с высокомерным видом прогуливаются перед еще запертыми стеклянными дверьми магазинчика Duty free только для того, чтобы в секунду открытия смести с полок всю крутую выпивку и запереться с ней в обнимку на двое суток. Греческие черные бабки уже болтают на палубе по сотовым телефонам со своими бессчетными родственницами на бесчисленных островах. “Нехорошие девочки” в этот раз представлены польскими тетками в таком необозримом количестве, что и пассажирский помощник на этом рейсе тоже поляк. Он высокомерен с украинскими горничными, робкой шеренгой выстроившимися у переборки в ожидании гостей. Помощник лебезит перед англоговорящими, он высокий, черноусый и совершенно трезвый той ясноглазой трезвостью, из которой каждому ясно, что накануне помощник был мертвецки пьян.

Паром ревет бычьим голосом своих ревунов, парит турбиной и очень быстро уходит от стада других паромов, которые следом за ним кинутся на Крит, Родос, Пафос. Ослепительное солнце, уже заваливающееся за окружающие горы, все еще кипит широкой полосой жидкого металла на фарватере.

Есть какая-то прелесть в спокойном гуле турбин, в шипящей светлой струе за бортом, в сильном и теплом ветре на открытых палубах. Ночью мы проходим скальную стенку неведомого острова. Малиновая, почти черная ее поверхность – это цвета остывающего доменного шлака. В темноте кажется, что мы проходим мерцающим морем слишком близко. Старший помощник капитана, маленький, элегантный и ухоженный господин в нарядной белоснежной греческой форме, выходит из рубки. Он стоит к нам спиной в недоступной для пассажиров служебной зоне, пока мы проходим остров. Все видят: он тоже вышел, чтобы ощутить это волнующее присутствие скалы, почувствовать на близком расстоянии притяжение колоссальной массы острова.

Если утром проспишь приход парома на Патмос, то просыпаешься от удивительной, дачной какой-то тишины. Звуки есть, но все они отдельные, нестрашные, потому что больше нет ни гула города, ни шума паромной машины. Тишина. Чьи-то шаги по коридору. Тишина. Выходишь на верхнюю палубу. Паром еще спит, а городок только просыпается. Бухта овальная, две горы, дома, перешеек, плоская плита моря. Солнце еще не вылезло из-за ослепительного контура гребней, и город лежит в зеленой аквариумной тени.

У берега на каменной набережной никого. Флагшток с греческим флагом: голубой крест и голубые полосы на белом фоне. Он выражает самую суть веры и суеверия моряков, уходящих в море. С высокого борта видно, что вода в бухте очень глубокая и прозрачная. Большие рыбы в темной глубине сосут качающиеся волокна портовых водорослей. Рыбацкие лодки и катера болтаются на привязях. Дальше по берегу маленькие кафе с длинными полосами маркиз и столиков. Стулья еще навалены на столы. Официанты поливают из шлангов асфальт под столиками и цветы в корзинах и вазах.

С парома видно, что через невысокий гребень можно быстро выйти к другой бухте, к другому морю. Там солнце уже светит вовсю, там море правильного, нежного и густого цвета, а небо бледного, но прекрасного колера цветных открыток.

Я пошел по берегу, разглядывая сады и колониальные беленькие дома. И повстречал двух стариков. То есть это они сначала показались мне стариками, потому что были просто очень небритые и одетые не в туристское, а в какие-то местные удобные рабочие вещи. Один – с тачкой, полной садовых инструментов. А второй возился у лодки. Они поговорили, потом еще о чем-то смешно поспорили. Толпа польских теток выкатилась с длинного паромного трапа и пошла по направлению к нам.

Один из греков, тот, что был у лодки, как-то по-стариковски присел и хулигански полез в сад ломать ветки с большого куста китайского жасмина. Он ломал их и ломал, трещал там кустами и выволок здоровенную охапку. Приятель его, садовник, укорял «лодочника». Но тут тетки польские, хохоча и балуясь, подошли к нам, чтобы сфотографироваться. И тогда ловкач с букетом стал раздавать им жасмин. Запахло густо и сладко. И тетки стали обнимать его, трогать цветы. Обласканные ветром и солнцем, польки все же были не самого первого цветения. Но он очень обрадовался, потому что для него они были молодые, веселые, радостные женщины, а он сильно им в отцы годился.

И тут второй грек тоже не выдержал и полез в сад. Но он пыхтел, трещал, а добыть путного ничего не мог. Наверное, потому, что он был садовником и знал, какой букет надо наломать. А тетки быстро нафотографировались с рыбаком, наобнимались и ушли толпой купаться. У парома всего два часа стоянки в этом порту Патмоса. И когда садовник вылез из колючих зарослей заглохшего сада задом наперед и радостно обернулся, то обнаружил, что польки-то ушли.

Боже, какое у него было лицо. Он стоял дурак дураком около своей тачки с роскошным букетом, вещественным доказательством должностного своего преступления. Но он еще не успел, а я увидел, как по гальке, легко перепрыгивая камешки, идет к нам расчудесная молодая длинноволосая Афродита с рюкзачком. И вот он ее заметил, обрадовался, метнулся к ней и вручил букет.

Она откинула выгоревшие волосы одной рукой, а другой обняла его и крепко поцеловала в щетинистые щеки бледными губами нехорошей девочки.

Перекинула через локоть букет и пошла дальше к гребню второго пляжа. А старик остался абсолютно счастливым. Ему же досталось гораздо больше, чем простые «обжиманцы» с хорошо пожившими польками. Он принял залихватскую позу настоящего мачо, что-то крикнул своему приятелю. Тот засмеялся. И они пошли работать.

Я успел их обоих сфотографировать. А девушку не успел. Она шла в направлении солнца, и за ее контуром море посветлело, пожелтело, и стало видно, что оно совершенно жасминовое.

 

Павел Онойко

Русские Афины

Иммигрант рекомендует, Лит. Клуб, Проза Tags: , , , , ,

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