Самый высокий ресторан

Oct 03, 2011 125 Comments Автор

Путешествуя по Саас-Фе, обязательно стоит посетить одну из основных местных достопримечательностей – вращающийся ресторан, расположенный высоко в горах. Только там, созерцая наполовину скрытые облаками горы, можно узнать, что такое по-настоящему высокая кухня.

Наш искренний интерес к хозяйке Vernissage Berghaus Plattjen в свою очередь заинтересовал инструктора, сидевшего за соседним столиком. «Вам хочется узнать побольше про здешнюю гастрономию или про Саас-Фе в целом? Впрочем, какая разница, поехали, я покажу вам легенду этих мест».

Легендой оказался самый высокий в мире вращающийся ресторан – как из фильма про Джеймса Бонда «На секретной службе Ее Величества», только выше и младше возрастом. В ресторан вело, опять же, самое высокогорное в мире метро.

Так, в несколько приемов, мы поднялись на высоту 3500 метров и замерли со сноубордами в руках, завороженные панорамой. Внизу было пасмурно и туманно, а тут вовсю светило солнце, и не верилось, что всего на 500 метров ниже картина принципиально иная.

Мальчики ринулись фотографировать облака, выше которых мы оказались, а я осталась слушать Дарио (так звали инструктора). Он оказался не только патриотом родного Саас-Фе, но и неисчерпаемым кладезем разнообразной информации.

«Это самая высокая гора, целиком находящаяся в Швейцарии, называется Дом (Dom), – довольный Дарио продолжал перечислять местные рекорды. – А вот на тот пик (Feekopf) через несколько лет собираются протянуть канатную дорогу, и тогда катание в Саас-Фе будет начинаться с высоты с 3800 метров – для Европы это…» – дальше, дорогой читатель, думаю, ты знаешь сам.

Дарио показал нам также, где летом базируется фристайл-парк, и пообещал на обратном пути завезти туда, где он сейчас. «А еще здесь есть ледяной грот, но сначала хорошо бы подкрепиться, – предложил он. – Пойдемте, я познакомлю вас с директором ресторана».

С трудом отлепив Рому от облаков, горных вершин, ледника Allalin и прочих дивных красот, мы поднялись в самый верхний зал. Он вращался, постепенно  меняя виды за окном, – за час ресторан поворачивается на 360°.

Дарио махнул директору, разносящему подносы с едой, и тот подошел поздороваться. Македонец по происхождению, швейцарец по паспорту, саасфеец по убеждению, он оказался в Швейцарии 25 лет назад. Карьеру начинал в этом же самом ресторане официантом и в итоге дошел до директора.

«Адаптироваться было просто, – говорит он, – потому что македонцы – тоже горный народ. В Саас-Фе к тому же живет множество иностранцев. Это интернациональное место и одновременно маленькая деревня, где все друг друга знают».

«А это моя бабушка, – неожиданно сказал Дарио, когда мы, спустившись в ледяной грот, рассматривали фотографии на стенах. – Раньше, когда еще не было холодильников, дети по три раза в день ходили на ледник вырезать лед, на котором потом хранились продукты». Лицо бабушки и двух ее спутников на фотографии отражало всю серьезность возложенной на них задачи.

Искусство резьбы по льду с тех пор, надо признать, сильно эволюционировало – к этому выводу мы пришли в одной из комнат грота, неуловимо наводившей на мысли о религии. Наверное, причиной тому было почтение, легко прочитывавшееся в настенных кланяющихся человечках. Выяснилось, что это часовня и в ней иногда устраиваются бракосочетания под тихую музыку – громкая может не понравиться леднику, в котором просверлен грот (кстати, самый большой в мире).

«Из-за глобального потепления мы не знаем наверняка, сколько простоит этот грот – может, сто лет, а может, всего десять, – задумчиво сказал Дарио. – Но вы еще можете успеть тут пожениться!»

Окрыленные этой идеей, мы поехали вниз – по леднику, простроченному бугелями, обгоняя лыжников с их скучными дугами, мимо парка с его страшными трамплинами, – вниз в Саас-Фе, где в отеле Ferienart нас ждал его веселый хозяин, 52-й сезон угощающий гостей по вечерам кусочками сосисок в тесте.

Алина Трофимова

EUROMAG

Главное, Туризм Tags:

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